Tuesday, July 9, 2013

Oh Naples, You're Just Misunderstood


Naples reminds me of my favorite pair of beat up jeans- a little frayed, a little worn, but easily the most comfortable thing in my wardrobe.  It would take way too much time and energy to break in a new pair, so I think I'll hang onto these, thanks.

I went to Naples just as I was- no pressure to look a certain way, and no putting on airs.  Such behavior will only earn you a rolling of the eyes in this brutally honest city.

"Let it all hang out!" needs to be this city's motto, for that is exactly what I saw as I tentatively peered out my taxi window.  Colorful laundry flaps on the lines between buildings as men argue on the sidewalks, waving their arms and posturing.  And just when you've gotten used to the whole crazy traffic thing from your time spent in Rome, it gets worse.  I goggled at the Vespas whipping by with entire families sitting precariously astride them.  Really, Naples?

I deeply feared for the poor dog I saw sitting in a woman's lap as she sat pillion behind her man.  Would she drop him?  Would he jump?  This strange dog's fate bothered my soul.  But  nothing prepared me for the three adults crammed onto a motorbike like they were headed downhill on a toboggan ride.  And the kicker was this:  the girl in the very back held a baby across her lap like a knapsnack.  My American mind demanded, Is that even legal?

Looking around some more, I noticed that graffiti and street art (some really good pieces) lobbied for space as far as the eye could see.  As I tried to get in a general feel for this place, I became a little nervous.  To my inexperienced traveler's eye, everyone seemed a little shifty, a little dangerous, but in a good way- like the bad boy you are absolutely convinced could be good...but only for you.

I glanced back at my departing taxi somewhat wistfully, but turned back to help Mom across the street.  We would do what we had come here to do.  After all, no one's ever warned me not to eat pizza with strangers.

Naples is the quintessential quickie- it gets the job done without putting in too much effort.  But truth be told, don't you sometimes crave a quickie?

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